Floral Print Shorts

As a part of Burda Teaching Certification Course assignments, I made a pair of shorts.  The fabric is stretch twill from Joann. I bought this fabric a few years ago with the intension of making a pair of shorts and never got around to it (as with all my stash fabric..).

I usually like slant pockets on shorts but the assignment required to have in-seam pockets.  After trying the shorts on, I do like the way these pockets look.  I think they look more clean-lined.

I like putting cuffs on shorts.  For one thing, I think they make my thighs look (slightly) skinner... (could be my imagination.)  The other reason is that It's much faster than hemming by hand.  I could just fold the hem up, stitch it down with the machine, fold the cuff up, and then machine-tuck it down in a couple of places.  

This time I also caught the bottom of the pockets in the hem so that they wouldn't flop around while wearing the shorts.

Fly-front zip insertion was a part of the grade, too...

"Burda way" of inserting the Fly-front was slightly different from what I was used to, but pretty easy and effective.

I do like the end product!  Even though it is a pretty busy print, I think these shorts will go with tops in many different summer-y colors.  I also love that the fabric has stretch.  The stretch makes a world of difference in the comfort level!

花柄のストレッチツイルコットンで、ショートパンツを作りました。Burdaソーイグ講師コースの課題のうちのひとつです。前開きのやり方やウエストバンドのやり方が、私がいつも使っている方法とは少し違ったりして、新しい発見もありました。

 

ちょっと派手かな〜とも思ったのですが、いろんな色が入った柄なので、むしろトップスが何色でも合う気がします。アラサーの私には少々丈が短い気もしますが、夏になったら勇気を出して(?)着たいと思います。それより、ニューヨークの冬に終わりは来るのだろうか・・・

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Simple Jacket <Burda Challenge 2018 : January>

This is my January post for Burda Challenge 2018 (read about the challenge here).  I am aware that it is already February, but I swear I made this jacket in January!  Just didn't get around to writing about it...

After completing my Burda Teaching Certification course (more about that coming up...), I wanted to experiment with the patterns that came with the course.  This simple, no collar, no buttons, and no complicated interfacing jacket is a breeze to sew with a great outcome.  It is my favorite pattern from the course, and I'm sure I'll be making more of them.

 

I wanted a jacket which has slightly more put-together feel than a hoodie parka, but soft and casual enough that it suits my stay-at-home-mom-to-a-toddler life.

 

I used poly-blend fabric from fashionfabricsclub.com, which is super light and bouncy.  One of the great things about this jacket is that it only uses about 1 yard each of fashion fabric and lining fabric.  I used bits and pieces of leftover interfacing, so the total cost of material was less than $10. (Not too bad! )

"Burda way" of sewing up this jacket uses a lot of hand sewing, and it generates a great result.  But I wanted to experiment and compare that to the "bagging" method, so that's what I did this time.  It came out okay, but I have to say I like the result of the hand stitching method better.  I'll continue to experiment with the next jacket...

Burda チャレンジに参加中です。毎月BurdaStyleのパターンを使って何か作る、というものです。もともとBurdaのパターンは完成度が高く、ラインの綺麗な洋服に仕上がるので気に入っています。

 

昨年末、Burdaのソーイング講師の資格をとりました。(これについてはまた後ほど・・・)資格を取った際、生徒に教えるために自由に使えるパターンをいくつか貰ったのですが、その中の一つがこの裏付きジャケットでした。表布・裏布それぞれ1ヤード以下で作れて、1〜2日くらいで完成します。

 

ジーパン+Tシャツのようなカジュアルな格好の上に羽織って使いたいと思います。

 

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New Pages: Japanese Sewing Books Guide

I wrote a quick guide to start sewing from Japanese sewing books, and a list of Japanese sewing vocabularies ("vocabulary" is such a hard word to pronounce for a Japanese!).  I am hoping that these might help people who are intimidated by books full of foreign language, or when diagrams alone are not clear enough to explain sewing processes.  

 

英語圏の人向けに、日本の洋裁本の使い方について書いてみました。日本語〜英語の洋裁用語リストも作成中(途中ですが公開中)です。英語で洋裁について書く機会がある方や、英語パターンを使ってみたい方には、参考になる・・・かも??

Although nowadays, I mostly sew from new and vintage printed tissue patterns, my Japanese sewing books and I go way back.  Ever since I started sewing my own clothes in 5th grade, I've been collecting (or buying and not being able to throw away) sewing books, and part of my beloved sewing library moved with me when I came to America.  

If you are interested in sewing from Japanese sewing books, or you already own them but puzzled by their sewing instructions, these pages might be worth a look (I hope!).  Also, I'd love to hear about any questions and comments you might have about Japanese sewing books! 

Hover over "sewing" in the menu bar right under the blog title at the top to show links to these pages, or you can click these links here:

日本語〜英語の洋裁用語リストはこちらから。実は日本語の洋裁用語にはあまり明るくないので、自分のメモ的な感覚でこれから気づいたときに更新していく予定です。質問や間違いの指摘など、お気付きの点がありましたらお気軽にメッセージいただけると嬉しいです。

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Toddler's Winter Leggings

I made a pair of leggings for my daughter using a pair I bought for myself.  

The original pair had some problem I could not live with, but I loved its fabric so much that I decided to keep them to use as material for another pair for my daughter.  

 

近くのドラッグストアでレギンスを買ってのですが、どうしても譲れない欠点があるのに気付いて返品しようかとも思ったのですが、生地が気に入ったので娘のレギンスに作り変えることにしました。

I bought the pair of leggings from a nearby drugstore.  They were folded and wrapped in a cardboard band, so I could not see the whole deal before I bought them.  The second I opened the package at home, the problem was obvious--- terrible pattern matching!! The big borders did not match at all---or rather, it was as if the person was trying to connect a snowflake border to a dot border on purpose.  

The fabric had the really cute pattern and warm, furry backside, so I thought it was worth remaking it to something else.  So I just made a smaller pair of leggings, this time trying to match the borders as much as possible.  I was so focused on matching borders horizontally, and I actually forgot about matching the snowflake patterns in the center front and back. 

luckily, the center front doesn't look THAT bad---though of course, not anything close to acceptable if I was actually trying to match... (and the center back is worse.)  But what's done is done, and the problem areas were mostly hidden anyway when my daughter dresses up in her whole winter gear.  

Fabric: poly knit with furry back

Pattern: from a Japanese sewing book: "Mainichi kiru onnanokofuku" by Yuuki Katagai

Size: 100

Pattern modification: since the fabric was thick, I used one size bigger and shortened the legs.  

お店で大人用のレギンスを買った時はボール紙の帯がついていて、全体が見られない状態でした。帰って開けてみると、雪の結晶柄のボーダーとドット柄のボーダーの柄あわせがとんでもなくチグハグ!これは気持ち悪くて着られない・・・と思い、返品しようかとも思ったのですが、あまりに触り心地の良い生地だったので、娘のレギンスに作り変えることにしました。

よこのボーダーを合わせるのにばかり集中して、実はセンターの柄あわせをすっかり忘れていました!一生の不覚・・・!でもシャツを上にかぶせれば見えないし、娘は喜んで着ているのでよしとします・・・

型紙は片貝夕起さんの「まいにち着る女の子服」から。

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Thoughts on Sewing and Sustainability

Last year was a slow year for my sewing and creativity.  Partially (ok, maybe a big part), it was because I was taking care of a one year old baby for the first time.  

However, the biggest reason is that I felt guilty about creating more "things" when I already had so many.

 

赤ちゃんのお世話で忙しい、というのもあったと思いますが、たくさん物を持っているのにさらに物作りすることに罪悪感を感じて、しばらく洋裁から遠ざかっていました・・・

 I know it's such a cliche for a new parent to suddenly become all environmental -conscious for the sake of next generation (= her own kid) , but that's totally how I was and am now.  

Apparently, donating old clothes does more harm than good in some cases. 

I decided to use old clothes as waste cloth and salvage notions as much as possible...

I watched this great documentary film "The True Cost" (you can watch official trailer on Youtube here), and I passionately recommend everyone to do the same.  It's about (I think) the raise of fast fashion and the burden that's forced upon environment and people in production (often in the third world countries).  It opened my eyes to something we all knew in the back of our heads but ignored so we could keep enjoying cheap, disposable fashion... for what cost??

I pledged to myself that I wasn't going to buy from fast fashion retailers which exploit worker's rights and do harm to environment.  I tried to up-cycle my and my husband's clothes to make baby clothes.  I wasn't going to buy any new items for myself unless I really, really need them ---then I broke down and bought some cute t-shirts for my daughter from one of those evil retailers.  (She looked really cute in them, and sometimes you don't have time to whip up t-shirts...excuses excuses......)

So my attempt to be a really good, environmentally conscious consumer was failing.  And there was my "stash".  

Is sewing up a clothing item after another any better??  Probably.  It doesn't involve deprived, underaged stitchers in dark buildings with no windows.  But I don't know where my fabric comes from. Chances are that there are many many dark, windowless buildings that produce yards and yards of fabric for $2.  Isn't compulsively sewing up things that I don't wear many times the same as an irrational shopping habit in principle?? 

When you shop, you can really look at the fit, fabric, design, and how they all come together in the final product.  The problem is that it's hard to find something that's exactly what you want.  But when you sew, unless you are really experienced in both sewing and designing, it's again difficult to end up with the final product that's exactly what you envisioned.  

I have been considering pros and cons of these different options, and yet not come to a conclusion. This is the reason for my sewing rut that lasted for more than a year now.

 

 

But the truth is, lately I really miss sewing.  Sewing and creating is directly connected to joy I feel in life, much like meditation for me.  So maybe for now, I settle for a median approach: Consider purchases before actually buying.  Carefully plan and take time to sew something I'll really love.  Take care of things I already own.  Try to buy from small local businesses as much as possible.  

 

 

So in other words, I just settled for some common sense stuff after much ado of thinking and rambling to my husband... (Poor guy. But that's what husbands are for, right?)

 

 

"The True Cost" というドキュメンタリー映画を観て、ファストファッションの陰で汚染された環境や、人権侵害問題などについて考えるようになりました。(オフィシャルのトレーラーはこちらで見れます)

 

どんどん服を買って使い捨てにする、というのは論外ですが、だからって手作りが一番良いかというと、そうなのかな??と考えるところがあり・・・

 

第一布の生産過程に問題があるかもしれないし、結構経験を積んでも、手作りで「これ!」と気にいる物を毎回作れるわけでもない。試作品とか失敗作とか、実は結構無駄になる物もあります。そう考えると、完成品をよーく吟味して買ったほうが結局はいいんじゃないか・・・?

 

と色々考えたのですが、そうしているうちにたまらなくミシンが恋しくなりました。やはり私にとって洋裁は趣味、人生を楽しくしてくれる物・・・

 

じっくり吟味してから買い物をする。手作りも、計画をたてて本当に気にいる物が出来るように頑張る。既に手元にある物を大事に使う。出来るだけローカルの、小さな会社や個人から買う。

 

というのを今のところの目標にしました。ぐちゃぐちゃ色々考えたり夫に議論吹っ掛けたりした割には、ごく常識的なことをちゃんとする、という結論になりました・・・

 

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Yellow Turtleneck shirts for twin babies

I have twin baby nephews who are 2 months younger than my daughter.  I needed gifts which I can send to Japan via airmail without going bankrupt. After thinking about it for a while, I ended up making something my daughter wears daily and I consider to be some of the most useful pieces of clothing I made for her: turtleneck shirts.   

 

日本に住む双子の甥っ子たちに、クリスマスプレゼントとしてタートルネックシャツを作りました。

Fabric: yellow organic cotton knit from fabric.com

Pattern: from a Japanese sewing book: "Mainichi kiru onnanokofuku" by Yuuki Katagai

Size: 90

Pattern modification: the book suggests to just turn and stitch down the sleeve hem, but I did mock-bands to finish with serger.  

 

I used fusible web to baste the hem, and then used twin needle. 

I'm not sure if boys are naturally drawn to tractors or just giving in to the society's expectation, but my nephews are obsessed with them.  So naturally, I added iron-on tractors. 

アメリカからエアメールで送る料金がとにかく高いので、なるべく軽く送れるものを・・と思って、結局タートルネックシャツを作りました。甥っ子たちの大好きなトラックのワッペンをつけて・・・

 

型紙は片貝夕起さんの「まいにち着る女の子服」から。娘のために何度も作ったお気に入りの型紙です。

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Freshly-baked Homemade Bread Everyday

Lately, I'm all about efficiency and short-cuts when it comes to cooking.  Ever since giving birth to my daughter, we just don't have the kind of time we used to have (those friends who'd told us that kids would change EVERYTHING were right all along).   

「子供ができたら生活の全てが変わるよ!」という先輩方の言葉通り、1日があっという間に過ぎて、時間のマネジメントがうまくいかない日々です・・・。
Before I actually became a mother, I had this perfect (and unrealistic) image in which I would make everything from scratch with the best of ingredients for my family everyday...  
 
And then, I had a baby.
 
Trying to figure out how to keep this little creature alive, the house reasonable organized, and everyone fed and clothed is quite challenging for a new-bee mother like me.  
If you are also like me...or just love freshly-baked bread, I think you'll love "Artisan Bread in Minutes" by Zoe Francois from Craftsy.com! (I'm not getting paid for writing this article nor did anyone ask me to write this...I'm just a fan.)
 
I think Zoe Francois's bread-making method is innovative.  You mix simple ingredients in a large container, let it rest in room temperature for some time, and then in a fridge for up to 2 weeks. (no neading required!) You can use a little bit of this doe at a time and keep the rest in the fridge for the next time.   
 
I'm quite novice on baking.  In fact, my only experience before this class was helping my mother nead bread doe when I was little.  So I think I can safely say that a beginner of beginners can bake decent bread with her method.  watching her technique in the video was also very helpful.  
 

赤ちゃんのお世話はもちろん、部屋の片付けや朝昼晩のご飯・・と(元々得意ではない)家事に追われる毎日。なので毎日の料理に関しても、どうやったら時短できるのか?を常に模索しています。 

そんな時見つけたオンラインクラス"Artisan Bread in Minutes" by Zoe Francois from Craftsy.com。材料を大きな容器に入れて混ぜ、2時間発酵させてあとは冷蔵庫で保存!あとは焼きたい時に焼きたい分だけ取り出して焼く・・・というもの。

パン初心者の私でも納得のいく味に仕上がりました。おすすめです。(*この記事はアフェリエイトなどではありません。ただの一ファンとして書かせていただきました)


I'm Taking Part!

This is the exciting time for sewists around the world! Zoe of "So Zo... What do you know?" blog is hosting another Me-Made May event.  

 

今年もこの季節がやってきました!世界中の手作り&洋裁好き仲間と交流できるMe-Made-Mayイベントが、今年も開催されるようです。

me-made-may'16

This is the forth time for me to take part in Me-Made-May, although my last two year's challenges were cut short (during MMM14, I  found out I was pregnant and got a bad case of morning sickness, and last year we had a family emergency).  With my husband working in education, May is also our time to travel and visit  families in two different continents.  

My pledge is to wear at least one me-made item everyday, and also to go outside in it everyday!

This is a challenge for someone who spent most of winter at home wearing PJ's. 

5月中毎日、ハンドメイドのアイテムを最低1つ身につけて、外に出かける、というプレッジにしました。冬の間はパジャマで1日中家の中にいる、ということはザラだったので・・・

少しでも引きこもり気味の自分のモチベーションになれば・・と思っています。


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McCall's7288 Pink Wool-blend Jacket

I finally finished this pink wool-blend jacket which I started last year for my mother.

 

母のリクエストで昨年暮れに取り掛かったウール混紡のジャケットが、やっと完成しました。

The pattern is McCall's 7288.  I picked this pattern because it has multiple cup-size options.  My mother has difficulty finding jackets or shirts that fit because she is full-busted.

I completely changed the back; She liked a photo from my Pinterest page, which I believe is of one of Anthropology's cardigans. So I mimicked the style lines from the photo. I think it turned out pretty good... I had to make several mock ups to fiddle with the proportions (my mom is quite short).

I cut out simple sleeve-heads from left-over fleece fabric. No shoulder pads, but I think even just the sleeve-heads give nice shapes to the shoulder area. 

Buttonholes were challenging because the fabric had stretch, and I also used stretchy tricot lining to keep the garment soft.  Probably bound-button holes would've been easier----but I like to add button & buttonholes after the whole garment is made up, deciding their sizes and placements at the very end.

Benberg lining... should've added more ease, or should've used stretchy lining....??? 

One thing I disliked about the pattern is the sleeves.  I feel like they hang funny... if I make the jacket again in the future, I'd draft up two-part sleeves.  

In Theatre, I was taught that putting labels in before the garment is finished is a bad luck.  Is there anything like that in fashion??


Simplicity1564 Baby's Footed Pants

I've made several baby's footed pants so far.  They are great to layer over bodysuits.  I tried 4 different patterns for footed baby pants, and my favorite is this one.  

 

アメリカの型紙(Simplicity1564) を使って赤ちゃん用の足までカバーするタイプのズボンを作りました。このタイプのズボンはいくつか作ったのですが、この型紙が一番良かったです。

The reasons why I like this pattern over others are:

  • Front and back is one piece, so less seaming & bothersome seam allowance inside
  • Elastic around the ankle 
  • Nicely shaped foot patterns
  • No waist bands

So in short, the pant part is really simple, and it has nice elastic casings around the ankle which is a must to actually keep the baby's feet in the "foot pockets".

One change I made was to make the back of the pants longer than front by 1".  This made sense because at the time our daughter was mostly sitting down.

These were great and our daughter wore them all the time!

Now that she started walking and needs real shoes, regular pants & socks combo makes more sense. So I had to (sadly) retire these cuties...

この型紙が気に入った理由は、前と後ろがつながったタイプで赤ちゃんの肌に当たる縫い代が少なかったのと、足首周りにゴムが入れられるようになっていて、足が抜けにくくなっているところです。足首のところにゴムがないタイプは、すぐ足が抜けてしまって、浅野内匠頭状態になってしまうので・・・

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